​Its not just about how thin it is. Some companies have said they have thicker wood to make me believe they have better wood. Thin wood from the center cut that is grown in the forest can often be stronger than the thicker wood that is grown on farms with pesticides in their wood. I would rather have a saunas with 1/4 inch wood than 1/2 inch wood from inferior grade wood.

If someone wants the best of the best wood, its thick wood, maybe 3/4 inch wood that is center cut. Now thats a solid sauna.
(I always ask what the grade of the wood is (is it grade a, b c or d) and is it center cut wood and is it farm raised or not. But thats just me. No one really cares about this but me, or at least most people that I talk to.

​The center cut wood, also known as heart wood, is the wood that has soaked up more minerals from the earth, and the densest, any black belt in my taekwondo class will tell you that. Heartwood is the prime wood. Its the wood thats much more richer in color than the wood that is closest to the bark of the tree.

The bending strength of the outer wood is usually much weaker than the center cut wood. The sound you hear when the sauna gets old is not often heard from center cut wood saunas but this usually doesn't happen the first several years until the wood that is not so dense starts to warp.

For heavy people, getting center cut wood might be worth it in the long run. When people see saunas that are under 1000 for a 2 person sauna and one that is nearly 4 grand for a 2 person sauna, these are the difference. No one wants to talk about the problems that might occur on a cheap sauna. Very few even want to think about it and will just handle the problem when that times comes.

I promote saunas in the cheap range for those that want cheap wood and the very high end. I don't recommend a brand just to make someone pay more. Its only based on what people tell me on my quiz.

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Grade a has no knots and no noticeable flaws.
If someone want this and expects it its usually not gonna happen unless someone knows what they are looking for and who makes a sauna with grade a wood. Grade b is good too but has some noticeable flaws but usually small. Its not gonna make the cut for fine furniture or high end saunas but most people are happy with it.
The grade c stuff usually is positioned on the bottom where you don't see it but the problem is that imperfections in the wood can can the wood to bend with heavier weight.
Grade D. I would make a book shelf or something where its not being seen but not something I would get in and out of on a daily basis.
Not: I forgot one thing. Know the moisture content of any wood before buying a sauna for that sauna, not just a general moisture rating. Each one should be stamped with a report of the drying because it can't get through customers if there is not report sheet. Wood that has more moisture will shrink as it ages and expand when it gets wet. Good wood has usually 6 to 8 percent.

As far as I am concerned any wood that does not meet my dry rate percentage for a certain type of wood I consider it green, might as well not even attempt to dry it because the problems with wood not dried enough is gonna give me problems down the road.
Wood creaking like an old wooden door at my grandmothers house.

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This is cedar but it has a small filet compared to the picture below.

What a beautiful piece of wood. Center cut all the way. Just like I don't want to serve the tail piece of a salmon.

I love mock tuna from carrots.
Grade c and d cedar is good enough probably only for grilling fish and tossing it.

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